Präriepost
Today from Sagres and Lisbon
June 22, 2016
It is windy, very, very windy here in the city on the Southwestern corner of the continent. The sun fights with the wind for attention, a sunburn could easily be masked by a windburn. Clouds move quickly from East to West but they evaporate as soon as they reach the Atlantic. Up high, the golden sphere pales against deep blue skies.
They call it “the end of the world” here, where towering cliffs sink deep down into the sea. Sandy beaches are nestled between cliffs, and only a few people enjoy their good fortune. Mothers and grandparents play with their children and grandchildren. Red, yellow, and purple flowers abound and question the end of the world.
The food they eat is no end-of-the world food. They know how to eat. Home-made cakes already for breakfast, long leisurely lunches, late dinners. They eat white pork, black pork, and boar. They know how to eat. And they know how to prepare fish, fish, and fish. Maceral and sardines, swordfish, sea bass and dorado. Grilled sardines are in high season. Small bones, large bones, bones everywhere. “They tell me that they come here to relax,” says the waiter, “not to work on fish bones all night.” Finishing with port wine, bica and pastéis de nata. Obrigado, obrigado. They know how to eat.
As they drive across this beautiful land, they leave behind white cities on a hill. The cities are separated from each other by fields of olive trees, eucalyptus trees, and half-shaved cork oaks. Then they move further north: Lisbon, the city of spenders and Porto, the city of workers and of port wine, of course. Here small, steep alleys that wind their way to the top dominated by castles and cathedrals. Cobblestone, cobblestone, and cobblestone. Beautiful colored houses as a backdrop to the river. Eiffel’s bridge, or was it the one by his apprentice’s, dominating over the river. Cosmopolitan. Cobblestone, cobblestone, and cobblestone. Big city life unlike the rural existence only a few miles away.
They work hard to transform the poverty-stricken neighborhoods in the cities to clean and attractive shopping and tourist areas. Not too long ago, the rent was fixed at very low monthly rates here, now real estate agents can set their own rental price. The building industry is booming.
Perhaps it is because of the rooster of Barcelos who brought good luck to this country. Years ago, a Galician came to town and was given the death sentence because he allegedly stole silver. “Oh no,” he said, “I did not do it,” proclaiming his innocence. And when he had a chicken for his last supper, he said, “It is as certain that I am innocent as it is certain that this rooster will crow when you hang me.” He did not finish his meal and indeed, while the pilgrim was about to be hanged, the roasted rooster stood up on the table and crowed as the Galician predicted. The man was immediately freed and sent off in peace. Still today, the rooster brings good luck to all families in this country, everybody must have a colorful copy at home.
Longevity researchers come to town as strangers, and they head toward one of the oldest universities in the world: the Universitdade de Coimbra – since 1290 they teach medicine, religion, and law here – the university library alone would tempt any student to call this home. “At night, bats fly around in the library to take care of any insects that would harm the old books,” explains the librarian.
The second oldest university is the next stop for the academics. Here, at the Universidade de Évora every professor can talk from an elevated lectern, one of the professors (doteur) appears to have quite a few students. All the lecture halls have thematic blue tiles, blue tiles, of course, blue painted tiles.
The scientists move further to the remote area town of the Douro River. The resort offers spectacular views from the top, but they prefer to lock themselves in and ponder recent longevity recipes. Does choosing the right doctor make the difference? Should variability be more appreciated? Can we separate maintainers from decliners 15 years before death? There are discussions about dementia, how to measure it, about a clear diagnosis and about exceptions. Depression in very late life, is it really depression, is it affect, or is it fatigue? They will continue their quest for answering longevity queries.
During break time the nagging, repeated questions: How can an important country in the West name such an unfit candidate for president? Can this really be a serious election? An Italian neuropathologist appears to know the answer: Problems in the frontal lobe make people react very, very strangely. Perhaps Fado songs help cope with the dire mood of the country – singing about fate and destiny of those who feel they will have no hope and nothing to expect.
As they sing their songs in the back alleys of the Alfama, it would be best for visitors to walk the streets of this metropolitan city. Shakespeare may serve as their guide, “If you don’t know where you want to go, you will go the farthest.” So they walk on cobblestone, and they walk, and they walk in this beautiful country, where the wind wails around the end of the world, where the people eat, and eat, and eat, and where history and art is captured on blue, blue tile.